Are you contemplating a trip to Curacao and want to spend some time away from the hustle and bustle of colonial Willemstad? Less than an hour’s drive away on the island’s westernmost tip you’ll find the laid back town of Westpunt where you can swim with sea turtles and then eat iguana in the same morning. Here were our top three experiences in Westpunt, Curacao.
Swimming with Sea Turtles at Playa Grandi
Playa Grandi is an active fishing port in Westpunt, and for years fishermen have been cleaning their catch and throwing the scraps into the sea. This has attracted turtles, and turtles have attracted tourists. According to our AirBnB host, this once sleepy beach has been growing in popularity for the past couple years and is now well established on the tourist map. The result is limited parking and a crowd of people around the dock, but the beach as a whole provides plenty of space to stretch out.
Why You Should Go
Based on my extensive travels, Playa Grandi ranks just behind the Galapagos Islands when it comes to sea turtle encounters. Unlike the Galapagos, though, the beach is super easy to access. You are all but guaranteed a chance to swim with the turtles, and they seem totally at ease around humans. For this reason alone, it was our top experience in Wespunt. Beyond that, the beach is free, provides basic services and even has a freshwater shower for those like me who hate the feeling of salt water on their skin.
Our Experience at Playa Grandi
We arrived around 10AM on a Monday. A local fella was directing parking. He seemed friendly and claimed to provide security in exchange for tips. I gave him a few coins, but it’s not really necessary. The beach parking is technically free.
Since we’re gingers with a ginger infant we sought out shade as soon as our feet touched the sand. There were a few umbrellas for rent and a handful of trees, but we ended up settling along a cliff on the far left side of the beach.
One thing that seems consistent with our infant is that there will ALWAYS be an inconsolable meltdown at some point while her mother is snorkeling out of earshot. I know this, so I feel bad plopping down next to a stranger. Thankfully on this particular morning we were the first ones to set up by the cliff. Hence, I didn’t feel so bad when the meltdown happened. I mean, sure, it may be the only extensive area of shade on the beach, but if you choose to sit near our infant then you’ve willingly brought this on yourself.
We spent close to three hours on the beach. Sarah and I alternated between snorkeling and baby duty. While there are some rocks and fish near the cliff face, most of the seabed is just sand. The real attractions are the turtles, not the fish. Luckily, there was a pretty constant stream of turtles passing through, and we soon lost count of our turtle encounters.
Know Before You Go
First and foremost, go in the morning. The general consensus is that the turtles are best visited between 10AM and 2PM. This may line up with feeding. We were also advised to arrive by 10AM in order to get a good parking space. By the time that we left around 1:30, cars were parked far down the road and nearly all of the shade on the beach had disappeared.
The highest concentration of turtles is right by the dock. That is also where the highest concentration of tourists can be found, and all of their kicking really stirs up the sand and reduces visibility. Judging from the crowd flow, I think many of the visitors were coming as part of small tours. They would only stay for 20-30 minutes. Perhaps because of their tight time schedule and groupthink, a majority of people seemed perfectly happy to stay right by the dock. Don’t follow the herd.
It’s possible to stumble across your own personal turtle friend if you swim out to where the boats are moored about fifty feet from shore. Once you get away from the dock, the visibility really improves. What’s more, by midday it is easy to see the turtles coming and going while standing on the beach, so you can really just wait for one to come near and then swim out to meet it.
I believe that it is possible to rent a snorkel on the beach, and there was a place to buy snacks. To save on money, though, I would suggest bringing your own snorkel and a cooler. The sea was calm with a sandy bottom, so you don’t need any special footwear.
Eat Iguana at Jaanchie’s Restaurant
For decades, Jaanchie’s restaurant has been a fixture in Westpunt. It is a short walk from Playa Grandi and offers a limited, no frills menu focused on traditional Curacao cuisine.
Why You Should Go
This restaurant has become a fixture of the tourist circuit due in part to its stewed iguana. That’s right, you can eat iguana! Jaanchie, the owner, is a real character who seems to take a lot of pride in his establishment and puts a premium on interacting with his guests. From what we saw, his shtick is to saddle up to each new table, grab a seat, and then talk the customers through his menu. There are other servers, but he’s the only one I saw taking a food order. Beyond that, the place is surrounded by bird feeders filled with sugar. That draws in flocks of colorful finches which entertain guests while they wait on their food.
Our Experience at Jaanchie’s
We found shaded parking across the street from Jaanchies and sauntered in to find over half of the tables open. We opted for a table on the patio because it had rocking chairs and was right next to the bird feeders. Our thinking was that the rocking motion would keep baby E asleep while the bird chirping would drown out some of her squeals if she woke up. It also meant that we could watch all the birds while we waited.
A server came by and took our drink order but refused to discuss the food menu. Then, after a wait of about 10 minutes Jaanchie came by to explain the menu. I didn’t need to hear it though. I had come for iguana. In the interest of frugality, Sarah and I split an order of iguana. When it finally came out, the flavor was great and the meat had the texture of a well done tuna or perhaps a frog. The only issue was that there were tons of little bones mixed in. So it was hard to eat. After lunch we had a really nice and unexpected peanut butter ice cream and then paid at the counter.
Know Before You Go
It’s customary for folks in Curacao to have their main meal at lunch, so Jaanchie’s, like many restaurants on the island, closes by 5PM each day. The meals come as a complete set and seem to cost about $20 each. I don’t get the impression that they offer printed menus. All the food that came out looked tasty and the serving sizes were pretty fair. If you’re looking to save some money, though, just split a plate.
Enjoy the Sunset at Playa Kalki
Playa Kalki is a small, cliff lined beach located just up the coast from Playa Grande. It is popular with divers and has easily accessible shore snorkeling. It is also well positioned for viewing the sunset.
Why You Should Go
When deciding what to do in Westpunt, we settled on Playa Kalki due to its reputation as one of the best snorkeling beaches on the island. Some refer to the site as “Alice in Wonderland” due to supposedly otherworldly coral formations. The snorkeling is decent, but the most impressive sights are just past the buoys where the seafloor suddenly drops out of sight. I’d estimate that this drop-off starts in water that is already 30 feet deep, so it is difficult to appreciate without scuba gear. The highlight for us ended up being the sunset.
Our Experience at Playa Kalki
Sarah, baby E and I arrived at the half empty beach around 4PM. We looked for shade but given the beach’s orientation, there was not any natural shade. There were several chairs with beach umbrellas though, so we camped out in the shade cast by an umbrella.
Sarah and I took turns snorkeling and minding the baby. Naturally, shortly after Sarah took to the water, Baby E started to fidget. Unlike our tenure at Playa Grande, we did not have first claim to this stretch of sand, and I noticed an older gentleman in a nearby chair casting worried glances our way. Then Baby E made the jump from fidgeting to screaming. Great. Outside of our little patch of shade was a sea of sunshine, so I couldn’t really take her anywhere. I just sat there and tried to calm her until the nearby groups dispersed. To be fair, by 4:30 the entire beach started to empty out, so I’m not sure how big a role E played in our neighbors’ retreat.
Even though the snorkeling failed to live up to our expectations, we had a really pleasant visit. The divers came out of the water around 5PM and we had the beach almost entirely to ourselves. Our only neighbors were an older lady with a massive camera at the far end of the beach and a young, somewhat dysfunctional French family. I tried not to be too nosy as the father aggressively chastised his elder child over her fear of snorkeling. There was crying. I reminded myself not to be a dick to baby E when she gets bigger. Shortly after 6 we were treated to a beautiful, peaceful sunset. The beers were finished, it was time to head home.
Know Before You Go
Playa Kalki has a small public parking lot. Make sure that you park there and not at the nearby hotel to avoid paying a fee. From the lot, there is a series of stairs leading down to a dive shop and café that sit along the beach. We did not purchase anything from the café, but I did notice them close up shop around 4:30PM.
As I previously mentioned, there is no natural afternoon shade on the beach itself, but there would be plenty of shade in the morning. For shade, you can either sit under an umbrella or on the café’s deck, which is partially shaded by trees. I assume that the beach chairs are for rent by the café, but we were not asked to pay anything, most likely due to the time of day. The chairs are left on the beach overnight.
Final Thoughts on Westpunt
These were our top suggestions for what to do in Westpunt, Curacao. Compared to Willemstad, it feels like being on an entirely different island. If you have the time and a set of wheels, the town is well worth the effort to visit. It may even be worth staying the night, but note that things are a little too spread out to make for a comfortable mid-day walk. Click here for more information about our trip to Curacao.